This spring, the jewellery auction season will be particularly exciting. Several important pieces connected to the Royal Family are set to go on sale. One standout item is a unique Cartier tiara that once belonged to Lady Astor, a famous and sometimes controversial socialite and politician.
The tiara features a central diamond section surrounded by carved turquoise decorations. It was created in two stages.
The original diamond tiara was made around 1915. It is described as having a design of crescents, bows, and clover leaves. The piece includes openwork and delicate filigree details. It is set with many old brilliant-cut, solitaire-cut, and rose-cut diamonds. At its center is a large old brilliant-cut diamond weighing about 3 carats.
In 1930, the tiara was redesigned to add carved turquoise decorations. This update shows two popular styles of the time: the geometric shapes of Art Deco and traditional Indian jewellery motifs. The redesigned piece includes three fluted turquoise plumes with stems set with single brilliant-cut diamonds. Between the stems are carved turquoise leaves mixed with old brilliant-cut diamond highlights and rose-cut diamonds. The ends of the tiara have fluted turquoise panels shaped like radiating fans.
This remarkable combination of diamonds and turquoise reflects both the history and evolving fashion tastes of its time.
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