Each summer, the Missouri River near Helena becomes a hub for sapphire hunters. While many people dig for these colorful gems, only a select few of the rough stones are fit to become jewelry.
“In cartoons, you see someone pull a jewel out of the ground, and it’s already cut and sparkling,” said Dillon Ewals, a personal jeweler and the owner of Big Sky Brilliance. “That’s just not how it works.”
Ewals explained that not all rough sapphires are suitable for cutting. Some are too small, while others are cracked or damaged. “Not all rough is created equal,” he said.
Even the shape of the rough sapphire can affect the final result. Certain raw stones can only be cut into specific shapes.
Cass Thompson, co-owner of the Spokane Bar and Eldorado Sapphire Mines, agreed. “A sapphire as small as one carat can still be cut and turned into jewelry,” he said. “But it needs to be clear and clean to start with.”
At the sapphire mines, visitors can search through gravel or join guided digs to hunt for gems. Some visitors find stones that end up in meaningful pieces of jewelry. “I’ve seen people use them in wedding rings and engagement rings,” Thompson said. “I’ve also seen a nine-year-old girl find stones nice enough for earrings.”
While sending stones overseas for cutting might cost less, Ewals recommends working with a jeweler in the United States. Local experts are more likely to inspect the rough stone carefully and help you understand what shapes and sizes are possible.
With the right stone and the right hands, a rugged Montana sapphire can become a piece of shining jewelry.
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