Buccellati has long been known for celebrating the beauty of Italian artistry. Founded in Milan in 1919 by Mario Buccellati, the jewellery house is admired for its mix of classical grandeur and detailed craftsmanship. Its designs bring together the richness of the Renaissance and the elegance of modern Milan.
Among Buccellati’s many collections, the Opera collection stands out. It is more than just jewellery—it is a symbol of heritage, identity, and artistic tradition.
The Opera collection first launched in 2015. It was a key moment for the brand. For the first time, Buccellati transformed its emblem into a full jewellery line. The collection was created to be recognisable, collectible, and timeless. It brought together traditional craftsmanship with a fresh, graphic style, marking a new chapter in the brand’s design journey.
At the centre of the Opera collection is the house’s emblem—a floral design inspired by Renaissance and Baroque architecture. This motif is similar to the rose windows in Italian churches or the floral patterns found in historical buildings. The four-petaled rosette also echoes the cross-like shapes seen in Gothic and Renaissance design. These elements have always inspired Buccellati’s master goldsmiths.
However, the Opera collection is not just one line—it is a group of collections, each with its own style. These sub-collections offer different ways to enjoy the emblem, letting wearers choose how they want to express their luxury.
Opera Tulle is perhaps the most classic Buccellati style. It uses the brand’s signature tulle technique—a method where gold is pierced with fine, hand-cut patterns to create a lace-like texture. This technique comes from Renaissance embroidery and Venetian lace, now reimagined in gold. In the Tulle pieces, the emblem seems to float above a delicate filigree background. The effect is light and elegant, with a beauty that reveals itself only up close.
Opera Gold is simpler but still striking. In this version, the emblem is shaped in solid gold—yellow, white, or rose—highlighting the clean lines of the design. The gold surface is decorated using Buccellati’s rigato technique. This involves engraving fine parallel lines to give the metal a silky appearance.
Opera Full Pavé, on the other hand, adds more glamour. In this line, each floral motif is fully covered in diamonds. Some pieces include mother-of-pearl or colourful gemstones for contrast. Even with this added sparkle, the designs stay refined. The diamond settings are done with great care, showing the same skill found in the house’s engraving work.
What brings all the Opera pieces together is Buccellati’s attention to detail. Whether it’s the airy texture of Tulle, the clean finish of Gold, or the brilliance of Full Pavé, each design reflects the brand’s view of jewellery as a true art form.
Almost ten years since its debut, the Opera collection remains central to Buccellati’s identity. Today, under the guidance of the Buccellati family and the Richemont group, the collection continues to evolve. Like a grand Italian palace, the Opera line is elegant, rooted in tradition, and always in style.
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