Dior’s latest high jewelry collection, Diorexquis, was revealed on Friday at Château de La Colle Noire, the historic home of Christian Dior in southern France. The collection showcases 163 pieces designed by Victoire de Castellane, the artistic director of Dior Joaillerie. Each jewel draws inspiration from gardens, flowers, and the glamour of elegant balls.
The designs reflect a dreamlike world. One standout piece is a miniature garden scene under a moonlit sky, made with golden trees, diamond stars, and a shimmering mother-of-pearl sky. This theme of wonder and elegance runs throughout the collection.
De Castellane told WWD during fittings in Paris that she enjoys using words like “marvelous,” “charming,” and “ravishing” when describing her creations. Her aim, she said, was to capture desire and joy through jewelry.
This joyful spirit shines through in pieces such as a lipstick case necklace adorned with gems and jewels positioned creatively on the body—at the waist, along the neck, or hidden playfully.
While the collection features rare stones like a 13-carat oval diamond, over 45 carats of yellow diamonds, and a 10-carat Colombian emerald, de Castellane said her goal was not just luxury, but happiness. “I find that creation is about having fun,” she said. “It’s about dreaming and always seeking joy.”
The collection also highlights traditional craftsmanship. Dior’s jewelry artisans used historic techniques to create modern effects. For example, the opal doublet method—layering opal with another stone—was used to depict moving water and shifting skies.
One highlight is the Diorexquis Pluie d’été set, which includes a necklace, ring, brooch, earrings, and an ear cuff. Its stormy sky design uses opal layered over black onyx to create depth and color changes.
Another stunning piece is the Bouquet des Roses set. Here, an opal and mother-of-pearl base enhances the glow of a 12.57-carat pink sapphire. The mix of light and transparency reflects de Castellane’s joyful design vision.
The plique-à-jour technique also features prominently. This method involves applying enamel without a backing, creating a stained-glass effect. It was used in the Jardin du Cygne set, where green and blue enamel leaves reflect light beautifully. At the center of the necklace is a nearly 4-carat black Australian opal.
Color also played a key role. In the Bouquet Milly Paraiba pieces, de Castellane used gradient enameling and colored gemstone claws to enhance bright tourmalines. The pieces combine blues, pinks, and purples for a fresh and playful look.
The collection’s third theme pays tribute to Dior’s love for grand balls. Jewels in this series include diamond-framed windows and pink ruby curtains, offering glimpses of lavish gowns. Doublets made from aventurine glass over mother-of-pearl add a magical touch, evoking the mood of an enchanted evening.
The event at La Colle Noire concluded with a dramatic finale. South African soprano Pretty Yende performed, followed by a display of models wearing couture gowns beside the estate’s basin. Fireworks lit up the Provence night sky, ending the evening with a fitting sparkle.
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