Circa 1700 will make its debut at COUTURE this June.
Among many jewelry brands seeking attention, Circa 1700 stands out for the deeply personal stories behind each piece. Founded in 2013 by Susan Cohen in Los Angeles, the brand acts as a storytelling studio. Each design serves as a gateway to memory, meaning, and mechanical craftsmanship.
Susan’s journey to jewelry design was unusual. She started as a writer with experience in film and technology. While studying at the American Film Institute, she began experimenting with wire wrapping and beading. What started as a hobby soon became a lifelong passion for creating heirlooms that carry symbolism, history, and personal expression.
“My mum says I was born wearing jewelry,” Susan says. “It’s always been part of me.” Today, she is best known for what she calls “gem mechanics.” These are kinetic and interactive details featured in many pieces made of 18k gold. Her designs include clasps that click with a satisfying lock and spinning orbs that hide secret messages. These features invite the wearer to engage and reflect. Susan credits her father for encouraging her to “think outside the box.” She aims to create jewelry that offers hidden surprises to its owner.
Susan draws strong inspiration from historical jewelry, especially from the Georgian and Victorian eras, as well as designs from the 1970s. Her work also shows a fascination with time. For example, her DNA Puzzle Initials piece represents the past, present, and future with three interlocking forms. Another creation, the Rollin’ the Dice pendant, combines enamel, diamonds, and a vintage spinner design. It playfully explores life’s big questions with choices like “Oui,” “Non,” or “C’est Fou.”
Antique and vintage items are central to Susan’s designs. She incorporates shark tooth fossils, 19th-century compasses, and antique diamonds into modern talismans. These elements carry rich histories. For Susan, her work honors their past while giving them new life. Her Direction and Strength Arrow Pendant moves forward only when “one of my amazing dealers finds the right stones for me.”
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