Earlier this spring, Chicago-based designer Viviana Langhoff unveiled “AU79,” a capsule collection featuring chunky gold jewelry. The name “AU79” refers to gold’s chemical symbol (Au) and atomic number (79).
This collection marks a shift for Langhoff, who owns the jewelry store Adornment + Theory.
Firstly, the designs are bolder and heavier than her usual pieces. Langhoff describes them as “substantial and grounded,” in contrast to her typical delicate work that often uses filigree and negative space.
Secondly, “AU79” fully embraces gold at a time when many designers are scaling back due to the metal’s high price.
“I’ve talked with many fellow designers,” Langhoff said in an interview with National Jeweler. “Some are hollowing out pieces, using 9-carat or 10-carat gold, adding more gemstones, or mixing metals.”
Langhoff chose not to follow this trend because her clients prefer solid gold.
She explained that many customers ask for thicker, chunkier gold pieces. This trend is especially popular in engagement rings this year, often paired with lab-grown diamonds.
Langhoff noted that there is much discussion on social media about gold’s long-term value, with prices nearing $3,400 per ounce.
Her clients, mostly millennials and Gen-Z, follow these conversations. However, many cannot afford both a chunky gold band and a natural diamond. So, they often choose lab-grown diamonds, seeing gold as a better investment over time.
“They all want solid gold with lab diamonds,” Langhoff said. She also mentioned that natural diamonds remain an option for those who prefer them.
The “AU79” collection was officially launched on May 2 at a party held at Adornment + Theory’s Chicago location in Logan Square, a neighborhood known for its arts and local businesses.
Langhoff plans for the collection to include 20 pieces. She started with eight ring designs priced between $2,000 and $6,000.
On her website, Langhoff describes “AU79” as “a testament to gold’s eternal allure—an exploration of its form, function, and meaning.”
She writes, “Gold is a story told in metal—a symbol of permanence, transformation, and power. In my latest collection, AU79, I explore the elemental essence of gold itself, embracing its weight, richness, and history.” She adds that the rings are “meant to be felt as much as they are seen.”
At first, Langhoff made only one of each ring and promoted them for pre-order on social media.
All pieces sold out during the launch weekend. Customers praised the ring designs and the detailed engraving.
For the launch event, Langhoff invited a calligrapher to engrave small jewelry trays live.
She also organized a mini exhibition on gold. The exhibit guides visitors through gold’s history, mining, extraction, and the tools used to craft fine jewelry.
The exhibition will remain at Adornment + Theory throughout the summer.
“People really loved it,” Langhoff said. “Everybody understood it.”
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