The world of fine jewelry design is brimming with emerging talents, offering enthusiasts a wealth of unique perspectives in this constantly evolving medium. One designer who has captured considerable attention is Marie Lichtenberg, a Parisian visionary who made her debut in 2019 with a distinctive and elegant locket design inspired by a cherished family heirloom. Lichtenberg’s creative identity seamlessly blends the timeless allure of antique inspiration with a contemporary sense of playfulness.
Her “Scapular” necklace, a contemporary take on the religious pendant style, follows a similar formula, breathing new life into a classic piece with vibrant colors and a distinct personality. Along her journey, Lichtenberg has garnered acclaim from prominent figures in the jewelry industry, and her designs can now be found in distinguished stores such as Broken English, Twist, and Net-a-Porter.
We had the opportunity to sit down with the designer herself and discuss her journey into the world of jewelry design, along with her early influences.
Ashley Davis: Can you tell us about your professional background before you launched your own brand?
Marie Lichtenberg: Certainly. Before embarking on my jewelry design career, I worked as a fashion editor for both ELLE France and ELLE International.
AD: What sparked your initial interest in jewelry?
ML: My fascination with jewelry dates back to my childhood, as my mother was an avid collector of antique jewelry. I vividly recall being captivated by her choice of accessories, particularly a sapphire line bracelet. My education and passion for jewelry were undoubtedly shaped during those early years, exploring antique jewelry stores and various flea markets.
AD: What motivated you to transition into creating your own designs and establishing your brand?
ML: While I gained invaluable experience as a stylist, it was a thrilling profession. However, I felt a compelling urge to push the boundaries of my creativity even further. The decision to transition into jewelry design was a prolonged process of introspection. I needed a significant turning point and a deep period of self-reflection before I finally made the leap.
AD: What was the turning point that led you to jewelry design?
ML: When I embarked on my journey in jewelry design, I was simultaneously navigating through challenging personal circumstances and experiencing moments of great happiness. I was dealing with family issues and resigning from a magazine where I had worked for over 12 years. I was leaving behind the familiar to build a new foundation—a fresh start.
AD: Can you shed light on your early designs, particularly your first locket, and the creative process behind them?
ML: My early designs were a labor of love. For my first piece, I drew inspiration from a necklace my mother gave me when I was 14 years old, a “creole” necklace. This served as the foundation for my iconic “locket,” a clasp transformed into a chiseled talisman bearing the words dedicated to my daughter, Paloma: “Love you to the moon and back.” It was a project filled with passion, wit, and charm.
AD: How did your collection evolve from lockets to your “Scapular” necklaces?
ML: The introduction of the “Scapular” necklace marked a new dimension in our collection. Inspired by a religious necklace composed of two small pieces of blessed fabric connected by a string, it allowed me to explore conventional shapes with added complexity. This addition also reflects my vision of enabling people to stack and accumulate our jewelry, making it a perfect complement to the locket.
AD: At this year’s Couture event, you unveiled an orb pendant encasing a Magic 8 Ball. Can you share more about this piece?
ML: The Magic 8 Ball pendant is a collaborative effort with Mattel, and we take immense pride in it. It provided the perfect opportunity to merge this iconic design with our expertise. To me, it epitomizes our brand’s DNA—irreverent and playful at its core.
AD: How would you describe your overarching design philosophy and identity?
ML: My venture into the jewelry industry was marked by a fortunate lack of preconceived notions. My ignorance became my greatest asset, granting me the freedom to create and act without constraints. “Freedom” and “irreverence” are words that aptly describe our work.
AD: Who do you envision as the Marie Lichtenberg customer?
ML: I envision my clientele as relaxed, playful individuals with a great sense of humor and style.
AD: What’s on the horizon for the Marie Lichtenberg brand?
ML: We’re currently in the midst of developing our next collection. Our primary aim is to continue enjoying the creative process and pushing the boundaries of craftsmanship, regardless of the commercial pressures and challenges that come with growing a business. While I can’t reveal too much at this stage, I encourage everyone to stay tuned for what’s to come.
