In the heart of Paris, Chaumet, the esteemed French luxury jewelry house, has its workshop overlooking the iconic Place Vendôme, where artisans are busy crafting a bespoke tiara for a wealthy Chinese entrepreneur. While custom-made tiaras may seem like a relic of the past, they are experiencing a resurgence in popularity.
The heritage of Chaumet dates back to 1780, and their clientele has included queens, princesses, brides, and businesswomen. Although the brand is discreet about revealing details of their clientele, it is evident that there is a growing demand for these regal accessories. Tiaras have long been associated with royal elegance, but their appeal remains undiminished in modern times.
According to Claire Gannet, the brand’s heritage director, the revival of tiaras can be traced back to Napoleon, who appointed Chaumet’s founder, Marie-Étienne Nitot, as the imperial jeweler. Nitot embarked on a mission to reintroduce symbols of the Roman Empire, such as ears of wheat and laurel wreaths, as fashion accessories for the empress and ladies of the court. Tiaras have endured through the ages and have retained their charm.
Gannet points out that tiaras have a unique influence on those who wear them. They alter posture and attitude, making the wearer exude regal elegance. This transformation is akin to that of a dancer or a queen, and it’s this ability to elevate a person’s presence that continues to captivate clients.
Crafting a tiara is a meticulous process that typically takes about a year and a half, although Chaumet’s wealthy clients often request expedited delivery in eight months. To meet these deadlines, artisans, including jewelers, setters, and polishers, work in pairs. Benoît Verhulle, the head of the workshop, emphasizes the importance of time and precision in creating a tiara. He likens the process to the formation of a baby, needing nine months to be created correctly.
Chaumet’s artisans employ both modern technology and traditional craftsmanship in their work. They use 3D printing for repetitive tasks while relying on the skilled hands of craftsmen for more intricate work. The integration of technology and tradition ensures that each piece is meticulously crafted, emphasizing the importance of the human touch in luxury jewelry.
The tiaras are custom-made to fit the individual client, as not all heads are the same. Scanning the client’s head allows for testing and ensures a perfect fit. European heads tend to be oval, while Asian heads are rounder. Some clients prefer to wear tiaras as crowns, while others opt for a forehead placement, but regardless of the style, the goal is to create an imposing and regal accessory.
Chaumet’s workshop is the only major jewelry workshop that remains in Place Vendôme, a historical hub for goldsmiths in the 19th century. Today, it stands as a symbol of heritage and craftsmanship, welcoming natural light and providing artisans with breathtaking views of the iconic square.
While Chaumet has a rich history catering to European royalty and elite families, their current clientele also includes the Asian market and “new money” clients from the technology industry. Surprisingly, these modern millionaires are choosing tangible and stable investments like gold and diamonds over virtual and volatile assets like Bitcoin and Ethereum. Chaumet’s jewelry embodies a timeless allure and the reliability of a physical asset, making it an attractive choice for those seeking both elegance and stability.
Jean-Marc Mansvelt, CEO of Chaumet, emphasizes the enduring appeal of jewelry, particularly in times of uncertainty, as it has historically been a trusted and portable store of value. In a world of volatility, precious gems and gold have an enduring and steadfast appeal, standing the test of time as the ultimate safe haven.
