Actress Carey Mulligan captured the essence of mid-century modern style at the 2024 SAG Awards. She wore a satin, form-fitting, strapless Armani Privé gown paired with a striking accessory: René Boivin’s gold and diamond collar from Fred Leighton. This glamorous and bold collar epitomizes the timeless appeal of mid-century fashion.
“She looked the part of the modern swan,” said Rebecca Selva, creative director at Fred Leighton, who collaborated with Mulligan’s stylist Andrew Mukamal. Mukamal expertly blended the spirit of the mid-century era with a contemporary twist. At the Oscars, he dressed Mulligan in a recreated 1951 Balenciaga gown, accessorized with large old mine cut diamond earrings from Leighton, each weighing 10 carats. This combination showcased the ultimate in fashionable restraint.
The allure of mid-century style has been reignited, partly due to the television show Feud: Capote vs. the Swans, which dramatizes Truman Capote’s fallout with socialites Babe Paley, Slim Keith, and C.Z. Guest. These women, known for their impeccable style, often wore distinctive jewels from designers like Verdura, Schlumberger, and David Webb. These jewelry houses continue to reinterpret their iconic styles today.
A shift towards statement pieces was already underway before the show. After years of layering chains and charms, there is now a desire for standout items. “Clients want that one gorgeous diamond collar or signature brooch,” said Selva, who is pleased to see men adopting modern mid-century style with diamond brooches. “The brooch signifies confidence and style,” she added. Actor Jeremy Allen White exemplified this trend by wearing Schlumberger’s Bird on a Rock brooch at the SAG Awards.
These statement pieces are not mere trends but timeless investments, according to New York jeweler Briony Raymond. She believes mid-century style is empowering, describing it as ladylike and grownup. Her collection includes large-scale earrings designed to enhance the wearer’s features.
Designers today are putting their own spin on mid-century style. Matthew Harris of Mateo creates bold gold and diamond earrings, Sorellina offers wide collars with gold and diamond sprays, and Selim Mouzannar crafts weighty diamond cluster rings.
“Whether vintage or new, statement mid-century designs are essential for any smart jewelry collection,” says stylist Micaela Erlanger. “These are the hero pieces every woman (and man) needs.”
