For nearly a century, diamonds, sapphires, and rubies have been the most sought-after gemstones. But before their dominance, a lesser-known black gem captured the imagination of jewelry lovers — and it is now returning to the spotlight.
Jet, a deep black, opaque gemstone formed from fossilized wood compressed over millions of years, was a symbol of elegance during the Victorian era. At that time, fashion and jewelry were not only expressions of style but also conveyed social status, wealth, and even personal emotions. The Victorian period was known for its strict dress codes and symbolism. Corsets and top hats showed propriety and affluence, while jewelry, such as dove motifs, reflected religious devotion.
Lightweight and pitch-black, jet is one of the oldest gemstones used by humans. It dates back to the Neolithic era (7,000–1,700 B.C.) and was popular among Romans and Vikings, who used it to make buttons, rings, sculptures, and protective charms. But jet gained its greatest fame in the 1800s when Queen Victoria wore it regularly. After the death of her husband, Prince Albert, she wore only black and often chose jet jewelry, making the gem a symbol of mourning.
“Anyone who was anyone was wanting to wear jet in the Victorian era,” said British gemologist Sarah Steele, one of the few experts in jet today. “We searched worldwide — Venezuela, northern Spain — to find jet and brought it back to the UK.”
However, the growing demand led to a decline in quality. Lower-grade jet entered the market, which chipped and cracked easily. This damaged its reputation. At the same time, plastics were becoming popular. In 1907, Bakelite — a type of plastic used in jewelry — was invented. Imitation jet made from plastic quickly replaced the real gem.
As a result, jet’s popularity faded. “People were tired of mourning. Then World War I happened, and that was the end,” said Steele. “It’s a miracle the industry survived.”
Though jet has remained on the souvenir market for decades, high-end fashion and fine jewelry designers largely ignored it. But now, that may be changing.
A small group of designers are once again using jet in their work. They’re not using just any jet — they’re selecting Whitby jet, considered the finest quality. Found near the coastal town of Whitby in North Yorkshire, England, this type of jet is prized for its deep black color and strength. Unlike other varieties, it rarely cracks or fades.
“Whitby jet is definitely in the running for the best jet in the world,” said Steele, who also co-owns Ebor Jetworks, a jet workshop and shop in Whitby.
One of the designers reviving the gem is Natasha Wightman, who is based in Sussex. Earlier this year, she launched her first jewelry collection, “Ravens,” at Dover Street Market — a store created by fashion icon Rei Kawakubo and her husband Adrian Joffe. Her designs feature black ravens carved from Whitby jet by artisan Graham Heeley, then set in gold by jeweler Ian Fowler. Wightman focuses on using only British materials and craftspeople. Her collection also includes carvings made from boxwood and deer antlers she found in her garden.
“I wanted to use something that came from our land and country,” Wightman told CNN. “Jet is one of the oldest materials used in jewelry, especially in Great Britain. I loved the romance and history behind it.”
Another designer, Jacqueline Cullen, has worked with Whitby jet for around 20 years. Her “Dark Matter” collection uses rounded pieces of jet set with black diamonds. The result resembles miniature galaxies with a subtle glow.
Cullen discovered jet while studying at Central Saint Martins in London. At first, she didn’t know its historical importance, but she now believes jet should not be limited by its past. “Whitby jet suits my aesthetics and practice,” she said. “I’m inspired by nature and dramatic energy. Carving explosive shapes in jet and adding black diamonds captures the feeling of a black hole pulling in dark matter.”
Despite its modern revival, many still appreciate jet’s strong historical ties to Britain. Ebor Jetworks, for example, sees increased sales during royal events and national mourning. Jet is one of only two gemstones mined in England — the other being Derbyshire blue john, a purple gem streaked with dark lines.
Artisan Graham Heeley, who carves the jet for Wightman’s collection, is proud to be part of the long tradition of British jet carving. He works entirely by hand. “It’s a soft, flinty material. You have to feel your way into it,” he said. “A machine can’t do it the same way. And really, would you want it to?”
As luxury consumers increasingly seek craftsmanship and rarity, jet may find a broader audience. Designers like John Galliano or Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry could one day feature jet buttons or brooches in runway collections. Jet’s uniqueness offers exclusivity. Unlike diamonds or pearls, real jet is rare. Today, it can only be collected in small pieces along coastal cliffs, where it naturally breaks off. Mining is no longer allowed in Whitby, as the land is privately owned.
“There’s not enough jet out there, and you can’t get large pieces,” said Steele. “Tourists call us all the time asking for raw jet, and the answer is always no.”
As designers rediscover jet’s beauty and history, this long-overlooked gemstone may once again shine.
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