Contemporary jewelry designer Anna Hu is leaving an indelible impression on the craft, with four of her one-of-a-kind pieces now featured in prominent museums. Her latest collection, unveiled during Paris Haute Couture Week, showcases her artistry at its peak.
Not all jewelry is made to be worn. Some pieces are designed to be admired by many, displayed in glass cases for future generations to appreciate. Anna Hu’s creations, which blend Eastern cultural influences with Western craftsmanship, certainly belong in this category.
Breaking New Ground in the Jewelry World
Anna Hu has made history as the first contemporary female Chinese jewelry artist to have her work inducted into the British Museum’s permanent collection. This achievement is remarkable for Hu, as the British Museum is one of the world’s most prestigious cultural institutions. The piece, the Enchanted White Lily Bangle, now resides in the Sir Joseph Hotung Gallery of China and South Asia, a section of the museum dedicated to art that reflects both Eastern and Western traditions.
As a Europe-based Asian artist, Hu has long distinguished herself with her ability to fuse Chinese heritage with exquisite Western techniques. The Enchanted White Lily Bangle embodies this unique design philosophy. Inspired by the white lily, a symbol of prosperity and purity in many cultures, the piece also reflects Hu’s personal connection to art and music—she was once a cellist. Drawing on both traditional Chinese flower paintings and the music of Robert Schumann, Hu captures the delicate beauty of a lily in this breathtaking work.
The bangle features a 30.48-carat natural rubellite tourmaline at its center, surrounded by 18K gold stamens painted with yellow enamel that gives them a lifelike appearance. The flower’s petals, crafted from silver, are treated through various methods to achieve a soft, moonlit sheen. The bangle itself is shaped like a flower’s curled stem, made from yellow gold, brass, and silver, and finished with a patinated bronze effect.
British Museum curator Jessica Harrison-Hall praised the piece for its beauty and historical resonance. “It was clear that this piece would fit seamlessly into our permanent collection,” she said.
Rising Recognition
2024 has been a significant year for Hu, with her Enchanted Ania Brooch joining the collection of the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston in April. This marks her first piece to be featured in an American museum. The brooch, inspired by a painting by 20th-century Chinese artist Zhang Daqian, showcases Hu’s ability to transform art into wearable masterpieces. The orchids in the piece are made from titanium and each holds a natural spinel gemstone.
Emily Stoehrer, curator at the Boston museum, expressed excitement about adding Hu’s work to their collection. “The scale and use of new materials are unlike anything made before,” she said.
In addition to the British Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts, Hu’s jewelry is also part of the collections at the State Historical Museum in Moscow’s Kremlin and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.
Historic Milestones
Hu’s journey to international recognition began in 2018 when her China Red Magpie Brooch became the first piece by a contemporary Asian jeweler to enter the State Historical Museum’s permanent collection. The piece, inspired by Western artist Giuseppe Castiglione and featuring more than 500 gemstones, was donated as part of a cultural exchange between Russia and China.
In 2022, Hu’s Yin Yang Hand Ornament was added to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. This piece, commissioned by American photographer Cindy Sherman, features two entwined snakes made from diamonds, rubies, and other precious stones. It remains one of Hu’s most recognizable designs.
A Continuing Legacy
Hu’s work is constantly evolving. At just 30 years old, she founded her own jewelry house, Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie, and presented her first global exhibition at the Louvre’s Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris. She has since created many breathtaking pieces, drawing inspiration from classical music, nature, and both Western and Eastern art traditions.
At this year’s Paris Haute Couture Week, Hu showcased her latest collection, which includes pieces inspired by butterflies and floral motifs found in Chinese art. The Dance of Dunhuang Brooch, for example, combines titanium with pearls, diamonds, and sapphires, and is inspired by both Chinese culture and European symbolism.
The Enchanted Peony Brooch, another standout piece, is inspired by a rare natural blister pearl that reminded Hu of a peony bud. Set with diamonds, sapphires, and tourmalines, the brooch takes on the form of a dancer, with its delicate stem and branches unfurling like ribbons.
A Global Influence
Anna Hu’s work continues to captivate collectors and curators around the world. “I’m extremely proud to see my high-jewelry pieces in such institutions,” Hu says. “It’s a true honor and deep recognition of my work.”
With four of her pieces now included in major museum collections, Hu’s influence on the jewelry world is undeniable. She has not only brought the beauty of East Asian art to the global stage but has also redefined the possibilities of contemporary jewelry design.
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